rust prevenitive solutions

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rust prevenitive solutions

Postby caveman » Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:40 am

I have been speaking to a few peeps who are interested in rust converters and cavity waxes etc so I thought we should post our solutions up somewhere as lets face it we all live far too close to the sea for our vehicles best interests lol

I have found that FE 123 from www.rust.co.uk is amazing stuff a rust convertor that actually works !!!!! I painted some on a scratch on the bug two years ago and done nothing else to it and its still not showing any signs or re-rusting!!!!

practical classics did a series of tests on cavity waxes and found that waxoyl was only second worst to used engine oil when used as a rust preventative they did however find that dintrol was very good and had far better "creep" properties than others tested so should access the nooks and crannys better. you can get it from rust.co.uk as well

another good company is bilthamber they seem to have got good results in the testing but I cant remember the details lol

there website is http://www.bilthamber.com/products

if you have any suggestions post em up!!! :wink:
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Postby caveman » Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:56 am

if you want to read the test click on the link then on the PDF file - its a goodun http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category ... converter/
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Postby funkyfreakapotomus » Sat Nov 02, 2013 1:15 pm

Actually this is really useful information!

I have recently done research into what products are good and everyone seems to have a difference of opinion! No matter who you talk to!

In the end I had to decide between Dinitrol and Waxoyl! I then went for Dinitrol!!

My bus had been done in Hammerite in the past! It seems to have done a good job! Flaking now though and I have a few rust spots!

I was told that rust convertors don't work and the only way is to cut it out!!

May try the rust convertor you have used as I have not under sealed due to the rust spots!!

My current problem is blisters and bubbles! I cannot find info on how to sort these out! I presume grind back to metal where possible and in some cases cut out??

Got them in several places :-(

Having not done this before I would be interested in what folk have done before to tackle this??
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Postby caveman » Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:52 am

for rust throughs there is nothing else you can do but cut it out and replace, but surface rust etc the FE 123 will work well ill try to get a pic of the bit I did two years ago to show you.
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Postby funkyfreakapotomus » Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:59 am

That would be great!!
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Postby Beetlebank » Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:36 am

funkyfreakapotomus wrote:
My current problem is blisters and bubbles! I cannot find info on how to sort these out! I presume grind back to metal where possible and in some cases cut out??


Hi there,

Very small blisters (less than 2mm) are caused by oil or water in the airline when spraying or poor panel preparation and do not generally result in rusting. They are often found in groups.

Larger blisters where the paint film is not broken are usually caused by rust coming through from behind the primer or, more commonly, behind filler on a poorly welded repair. This results in large, gently rounded blisters, often in a straight line. All repairs should be fully welded to avoid flexing which will crack filler and butt-jointed which will eliminate the risk of water traps.

Overlapped weld seams that are only tacked together at intervals and fillered over are favourite for this type of rusting and commonly give problems in less than 2 years. 95% of rust that I see comes from the inside of panels and previous repairs due to them not having been cavity sealed.

Cheers, Carl.
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Postby funkyfreakapotomus » Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:43 am

I have them above my side widows but below the gutter!!
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Postby regcheeseman » Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:29 pm

I've used FE123 to good effect in the past, teamed up with a decent epoxy mastic (fabulous suff)

For the latest project I've switched to Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 for rust killing duties - it seems good. I also like their electrox primer, carries a lot of zinc and more importantly isn't porous, so can be left in a damp garage whilst getting on with other bits.

I've used waxoyl i the past but am aware of it's poor perfomance (improved by adding diesel to help penetration)
However I'm going to use either dinitrol ML3125 or bilt hamber's DYNAX UC

My only dilema now is if I should use stone chip, always found it chips off too easy.

Oh and loads and loads of waxoyl schutz.

I'll never ever use hammerite paint, just seems to promote rust underneath before bubbling up.
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